Atilan Volcano – Trekking Upward

40. Climbing Mt. Atilan

It felt good to sleep in on our transfer day. After breakfast and strapping our bags to the top of our bus, we were off for the four-hour ride to Lake Atilan. We were all in a good mood and singing along to the motivational playlist Zoe constructed of our individual choices. The beautiful scenic drive and laughter along the way made the time pass quickly. We came around a corner in the road and laid out ahead were beautiful volcanic peaks. Shortly, the bus driver pulled over at an overlook of Lake Atilan. We all piled out to take in the majestic site before us. As I gazed upon the towering peaks rising from the surface of the water, it was as if a huge wave knocked me over. The thought that the next day I would be climbing one of those peaks overwhelmed me to the core. I had serious thoughts of signing off and sitting this one out. I remembered the words of the Psalmist David in Psalm 121.

I look to the mountains; where will my help come from?

My help will come from the Lord, who made heaven and earth. GNT

There was a platform overlooking the lake, and I walked briskly toward it. I knelt on my knees and hid my face in my hands. In that moment, I lifted my thoughts to a Power greater than myself, earnestly asking for the strength I needed to face the challenge of the next day.

We took group pictures and boarded back on the bus to a minimart where I withdrew some local currency from an ATM while the others got food, snacks, and drinks for the boat ride to our next hotel. The crossing was a lot of fun as we slowly crossed the lake. I chose a perfect spot with a chair looking out the back of the boat and Vinnie sat in a chair beside me. The mood was buoyant and cheerful as we enjoyed our snacks, beverages and camaraderie.

Boat ride across Lake Atilan with Vinnie

The grounds of our hotel were beautiful with lush, tropical plants and pretty views from our rooms. Once settled in, we set off for a taco dinner and enjoyed the local sites and sounds along the way. The shops had colorful Mayan items that offered fun souvenirs to take home. The streets were noisy with the many Tuk-tuks that raced by. After filling up on tacos, we set out for a little walking tour of the town. I chose to buy two apples from a colorful fruit stand to take in my daypack the next day. I enjoyed seeing the street vendor’s wares, the families with their small children and the interesting architecture, especially the Spanish Cathedral.

That evening before going to bed, Zoe asked us to gather at a spot near the lake. She offered us an opportunity to share what was in our hearts and thoughts while we were in the midst of this epic challenge. When it was my turn, I hesitated as I wasn’t sure I could articulate my innermost thoughts very clearly. I was very emotional and garbled out some thought fragments that probably didn’t make sense to anyone but me. But I found it very meaningful to hear what others had to say. Dealing with Parkinson’s Disease brings loss and grief that must be processed and this was an opportunity to hear the stories of others traveling a similar path.

When I woke the next morning, I felt rejuvenated and ready to take on the mountain. We were instructed to be at the hotel restaurant by 2:30 to pick up our preordered breakfast and lunch for the day’s climb. Then we headed to our transportation site where pick-up trucks were waiting for us. I was granted a seat inside the cab which I gladly accepted. The others jumped into the beds of the trucks, and we were on our way. It was very dark and chilly outside, and I was glad to be inside the truck.

The journey to the trailhead took approximately 20 minutes. When the trucks came to a stop along the road, everyone got out and began preparing for the hike ahead. Luisa had arranged a porter to carry my daypack, so I handed it over before we set off. Each member of our group wore a headlight that illuminated the path in the early morning darkness.

After snapping a group photo, we were off. The darkness limited our vision, and the only part of the trail visible was the section lit by our headlights. At first, the path felt more like a deep ditch, but the trail was not as steep as I had anticipated. Above us, the moon and stars peeked through the canopy of trees, adding a quiet beauty to the experience. Lauren had a fascinating app that identified the constellations overhead. I had no sense of time, and I couldn’t say exactly when we stopped for breakfast. However, I recall that it was still early, with the first light of dawn beginning to break through the trees. I ate a banana and half of the black bean and scrambled egg burrito I had requested. I gave my porter the vegetable selection I requested for lunch.

With the light of day, I could see that we were trekking through what looked like a jungle. It reminded me of my time in the jungles of Cambodia many decades ago. The trail was also a lot steeper now and I had to watch every step I took. All along the way were very beautiful flowers. It had warmed up so I took off my jacket but kept my liner gloves on. I kept a middle-of-the pack position as the group separated into three sections. We stopped frequently along the way to take rest and snack breaks.

When we stopped for lunch, I ate the remaining half of my burrito. As I was eating it, I noted a tiny worm on my thigh where the burrito rested in my hand. Jo admonished me to forgo eating the remainder of the burrito. I didn’t know if the worm was from the burrito or had fallen from a tree but either way I didn’t feel that eating a worm would hurt me and I could use the protein. LOL

As we continued, the trail got steeper and the air got thinner. Before long, we were high enough to see through clearings to the lake below. I was needing get-my-breath breaks more often now but still doing okay and I knew I would make the peak. Eventually we broke through the tree line, and the trail became very steep with little switchbacks all the way to the top. The ground was very rocky with volcanic gravel making it slippery. The group spread out as each hiker struggled to keep going. We could clearly see the lake below, but all our focus was on getting to the top. My pace had slowed down to that of a slug, but I was still going, still panting, still determined to get there.

Luisa was poised at the crest and took pictures of each of us as we reached the top. I had made it! I had done something truly remarkable in that at 70 years old and living with PD for almost 9 years I had achieved the Three Volcano Challenge with no more help than a porter to carry my overnight gear on Acatenango and my daypack on Atilan. I was overcome with emotion and felt gratitude for all the support and love that had been shown to me. I had carried a list of my supporters in my pack up each volcano and took the list from my pack to photograph it. Then I took a picture with Vinnie and Luisa.

Arriving at the crest of the top of Mt. Atilan

I was beyond exhausted and looked for a place to sit down. I spied a rock with a vent producing a warm vapor. I sat there taking in perhaps the most incredible, majestic and gorgeous 360-degree panorama I have ever seen. In my exhausted, neurochemically depleted, and glucose deprived state, I felt alone, isolated and sad. While these feelings are common to people with PD, they were not familiar to me. The metaphor of the mountain was not lost on me as I contemplated the realization that I had reached the peak and it was all downhill from here. I would have to face what age and PD were doing to me. I tried to memorize the view in my mind, knowing that I would not see anything like this again.

Zoe came over to check on me and asked if she could sit with me. Perhaps she sensed how I was feeling or perhaps she recognized something she had seen in her father who was living with PD longer than I have. I assured her I was okay. Then Jerry came over and offered me some bites of his chocolate bar. I gladly accepted his offer. I truly believe that those bites of chocolate gave me just what I needed to get my keister off that rock and join the group for celebratory pictures. All twelve of us had made it. Now that is something to be proud of and celebrate!

The four hikers living daily with PD. Me, Jay, Mark and Devon

Our descent began later in the afternoon than we had planned, which meant we would be navigating the trail as daylight faded. Although going downhill required less raw energy than climbing up, the challenge shifted to maintaining balance on the slippery path. I adopted a side-step technique, keeping my trekking poles close to my body to counteract gravity and prevent myself from falling.

Fatigue was evident among all of us, and many members of the group took tumbles along the way. Thankfully, none of the falls resulted in serious injury. As we continued down, the sky was transformed by a stunning sunset, its pink and orange hues casting a beautiful glow over the landscape.

With darkness settling in, I put on my headlight to illuminate the trail for the last stretch. After fourteen arduous hours, we completed the final volcano, bringing our remarkable journey to a close.

That evening, as we gathered around the dinner table, I felt in a fog. My communication, socializing, mood regulation and even thinking were off. Fortunately, the others were functioning better than I was and we gave Vinnie and Luisa a nice gratuity and offered big thanks for being the best guides in Guatemala. Five of the group were leaving early the next morning so we said our goodbyes to them. The rest of us were spending extra time at Lake Atilan before returning home.

The boat transfer to our respective resorts on Lake Atilan was fun for the seven of us who were staying on a few days after the climb. Jo and I were dropped off first at Isla Verde, a virtual garden resort recommended by my friend Ana Boza. Later that afternoon we relaxed with a massage session we had booked before our trip. For dinner, we met up with the others to enjoy one last dinner together. Lauren and Zoe treated me to a celebratory Margharita as we circled up on a beach and recounted many fun times over the week.

Over the three days after the climb, I was able to recover much of my strength both physical and mental. While climbing very high volcanoes may be over, I will continue to climb mountains. I will still find many ways to advocate for the PD community. I will continue to live a vibrant and meaningful life.

I want to express my heartfelt gratitude to the Michael J Fox Foundation for providing me with this extraordinary opportunity. Not only did this experience allow me to accomplish a significant physical feat, but it also offered a valuable chance for introspection and helped guide me toward new directions in life.

I am deeply thankful to the eleven other members of our team. Their unwavering support and enthusiastic encouragement played a crucial role as I faced the challenges of this journey. Every step was made easier knowing I was surrounded by such a dedicated and caring group.

Additionally, I am profoundly appreciative of all those who contributed to my campaign, join me on my local hikes, and continue to offer friendship and encouragement in my daily life. The love and support I have received has been invaluable and has made this achievement even more meaningful.

I was able to raise $11,600 and collectively the group raised over $135,000 dollars. ONE HUNDRED PERCENT of these funds goes directly to research seeking an end to Parkinson’s Disease.

37. Intensive Hiking before the Volcanoes

I leave in three weeks to fly to Guatemala to embark on the mission of conquering three different volcanoes. I have been diligently training with intensive hiking treks, core exercises, and jogging for cardiac building.

The first weekend of October, I had a mini reunion with 3 other women who hiked Mt. Kilimanjaro with me. One of those is Jo Simmons who was my tent mate on Kilimanjaro and will be my partner on the Guatemala challenge. Another woman is Connie Qian who came along to hike with us and cheer us on. We hiked three days straight. The first was immediately after picking Connie and Jo up from the airport and heading straight to DuPont State Park to hike the three waterfalls trail – High Falls, Triple Falls and Hooker Falls. It wasn’t a terribly challenging hike but did get my heart rate going and produced some sweat. Then on Friday we took on Raven’s Cliff Falls at Ceasar Head State Park in South Carolina. This was a 5.8-mile hike with 1320 ft. elevation gain. We put out some energy on this one. The hint of fall color showing off and the beautiful views were gorgeous. The third day, Laura Aldridge joined us for an arduous hike up the 535 stairs at Catawba Falls. We logged 3.8 miles and 853 ft. elevation gain for this one. The upper and lower falls were spectacular. It was a great reunion, an invigorating hiking retreat, and another event where fond memories were imbedded into our history.

This week, I went on another hiking extravaganza. A few of my hiking friends stayed in a cabin at Roan Mountain State Park in Tennessee right on the North Carolina-Tennessee state line. We hiked three days and put in some good miles with elevation gains up to 1,090 ft. Collectively for the three days we did about 11.5 miles and 2,600 ft. elevation gain. When I consider that we will be hiking over 5,000 ft. elevation gain with 8 miles in just one day of the volcano challenge, it seems like a herculean undertaking. Hopefully, we will go slowly and have a lot of time to cover the distance. I’m sure we will be starting our climbs on the difficult days at sunrise, and we will have headlamps if we are on the trail before daylight or after sunset.

I have been deeply moved by the show of support given to me with my Parkinson’s journey and my efforts to make a difference to others with this fight. I hope that I offer hope to those facing the rest of their life with PD. I want to show that there is much life to be lived after hearing the words “you have Parkinson’s Disease.” I will continue to advocate for the PD community by fundraising for research, reaching out to legislators and being engaged with my local PD community.

36. SEPTEMBER 18, 1955

Today marks the 70^th anniversary of the day I entered this world. The technology in the 1950’s was not advanced to know the sex of the baby before birth. In fact, I think a rabbit had to die to even confirm a woman’s pregnancy. Since my parents already had three boys they were hoping for a girl. As the story I heard many times over goes, there were shouts of happiness when dad delivered a baby girl. I was stubborn even at birth as I apparently didn’t want to breathe and vigorous efforts were made to stimulate me. It was a Sunday, and dad didn’t have surgeries or office hours that day but instead went out to play a golf tournament and won. The newspaper carried an article the next day about Dr. PJ Moore delivers daughter and wins at golf.

My memories go back to the late 50’s and 60’s growing up in a very different world than what is today. It is beyond amazing to remember the big console black and white TV that got three channels, had no remote so that one had to get off the couch to change channels and adjust the antenna and stopped broadcasting at midnight. Now, on a device just barley bigger than a credit card we can talk and send messages to people around the world, do our banking and business matters, take pictures and videos, store all those images, have access to a dictionary, Bible, atlas, extensive reading and listening library, get driving directions, research any subject, play games and so much more. I remember when the sound barrier was broken, John Glenn circled the earth, and Neil Armstrong walked on the moon. The advances in medical technology make old episodes of Star Trek seem prophetic as well as devices Dick Tracey and Get Smart used.

But what I don’t remember when I was young were many people with Parkinson’s Disease. There was an elderly gentleman in our community who had it. When I was in college, I knew my 80-year-old grandfather had it. My mom brought him from his home in Ohio to our place in North Carolina to take care of him and did a lot to rehabilitate him so that he could walk some. He died when he was 82 and I had recently graduated from college.

Today, there are many individuals diagnosed with Parkinson’s Disease. It is estimated that 90,000 people in the US will be diagnosed this year and 15 % of them early onset – younger than 50 years old. As of now, the worldwide estimate of people with PD is 10 million. It is taking over Alzheimer’s Disease as the leading neurological disorder. So, what is causing this trend?

In the last few months, I have read several articles about the risk of environmental toxins. The finger is pointed directly at Paraquat, an herbicide used to kill weeds and help lawns to look beautiful, as well as in agriculture. The dangers of living near a golf course and playing golf are being documented with alarming statistics raising one’s risk for PD. Other chemicals are being implicated as well like Trichloroethylene (TCE) used as a solvent and in dry cleaning fluid. There are other herbicides, pesticides, metals and organic pollutants as well. Some articles are indicating that PD may be largely preventable if these pollutants and toxins were banned. Of course, there are genetic risks and traumatic head injury that contribute too.

I do a lot of online reading and research to learn what I can about how to live life well with a diagnosis of PD. There are many products, devices, supplements, and how-to plans out there that offer some help with symptoms. Of course, the medication Sinemet or carbo/levodopa is the primary medication as well as a lot of others that help control symptoms. But the only proven way to slow down the progress of the disease is to engage in vigorous, heart-raising, sweat producing exercise for at least 30 minutes three or four times a week. I don’t get in as much as I need to every week but make a big effort to be out there trying to slow down this debilitating disease.

Since I have committed to hiking three volcanoes in Guatemala as a fundraising event for the Michael J Fox Foundation in November, I am trying to make an extra effort to be in shape. These events serve several purposes for me. They give me incentive to stay active and strive for being shape. I have found a wonderful support group in the Fox community. It has given me a way to reach others to offer hope, inspiration, awareness and show just what exercise can do. It has also given me a way to be a part of the solution by raising funds for research. One hundred percent of the funds I have raised through events I have participated in with the MJFF go to research. I could write more about the fantastic efforts of the MJFF as they do so much to provide information, raise awareness, work to advance legislation on behalf of the PD community and so much more.

So as fall rolls in and I prepare for this monumental adventure, watch for me on the trails. I’ve recently been to the summit of Table Rock in SC and many other peaks in the mountains of Western North Carolina. A few days a week I’m out jogging in my neighborhood. I’m doing core exercises like push up and sit-ups. And lately, I’ve been doing a lot of yard work pulling weeds, dividing plants, hauling mulch. I’m going to get to the top of those volcanoes!

https://give.michaeljfox.org/fundraiser/6315010

35. What’s Driving Me to take on Guatemala

In three months, I will be in Guatemala already embarked on my quest to climb three volcanoes. This will be an effort in endurance, perseverance, strength and courage. I have been wondering lately what is driving me to do this. I think I just might be crazy! Let me assure you that it is not to bring attention to myself. I wish every day that I did not have a neurogenerative disorder, and certainly not one who’s symptoms are very visible and disabling. I have been considering the answer lies party in the foundation of my upbringing.

I was the only girl with four brothers raised by the two most hard-working parents I have ever known. That was the kind of hardworking where they were up before dawn and worked till way past sundown. Mom was raised on a dairy farm in Ohio where the cows had to be milked twice a day every day of the year. In-between the milking sessions the farmer has lots of chores to do and feed to grow for the cows. My dad was a surgeon at a small mountain hospital where he was literally on call 24/7 all year long. Mom wrote a chore list for each child every day except Saturday which in our household was the Sabbath. Sometimes, she would tell us to get all our chores done and she would take us swimming for an hour of so at the neighborhood pond. The core family value was to be industrious and do your best at whatever you set out to do. They were purpose driven parents that instilled that feature into the very fabric of their five children. We learned how to work hard, play hard, and to be servants to others.

I lived a full and rich life traveling to destinations near and far, taking up sports like backpacking, scuba diving, snow skiing, hiking and racquetball. I’ve also gone on several humanitarian trips to third world countries to provide medical care where the needs are overwhelming. When I diagnosed myself with PD at the age of 61, I wasn’t about to lay down and roll over. I wanted to do everything I could to slow down or end the progression of what it was doing to my body. I was already very physically active but now I made it a necessary part of weekly life. I never smoked, ate a mostly plant-based diet with much of the produce homegrown in our organic garden, drank alcohol very sparingly, and did other things pertinent to a healthy lifestyle.

When I retired at 65 from my postgraduate healthcare career, there was no question what my new mission and purpose would be. I decided to go public about my diagnosis by undertaking a grand journey to the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro. I had and still have the goal of bringing awareness about PD, inspiring others, and raising funds for research to end this dreaded disease. After I survived climbing to 19,341 ft. elevation what next?

Sometimes, I think I project how well a person can live with this disabling disease that I may be camouflaging what daily life is really like. It is a movement disorder so everything that involves movement is affected. From blinking my eyes, chewing food, putting on clothes, swinging my arms when I walk, the adaption my pupil makes to accommodate to changes in light, the activity of my GI tract, turning over in bed, and cooking are some of the things I deal with. My speech has become softer, I choke at times, my gait can be off when I walk, and standing in one place for any length of time is difficult. I can’t seem to get my smile right anymore. There are numerous chores around the house and yard, and so much more that affect my everyday life. But it is not just movement that is affected. There are many nonmovement symptoms that make life difficult and unpleasant. My sense of smell was diminished many years before my diagnosis. Imagine not being able to smell bread baking in the oven, the fragrance of fresh flowers, newly mown grass, or evergreens at Christmas. I can’t enjoy the aroma of fresh brewed coffee or the scent of a new baby. And in our house, I can’t smell the fresh aroma of Sunday tomato sauce. I also can’t smell soured milk or spoiled food and other odors that alert me to potential dangers. My nose will start dripping for no reason and without warning. REM sleep disorder is very common for people with PD. I have vivid dreams and at times, wake myself and my husband up with screams of terror. I sweat more profusely than before PD. But the worst nonmovement concern is difficulty with mood regulation. Anything stressful is more difficult to manage and anger outbursts are another characteristic of it. Depression goes hand in hand with PD. I fear I am losing my personality and friends will not understand my need to keep things on a level field emotionally.

At my first appointment with my Movement Disorder Specialist, he told me the good news is that PD doesn’t cause death nor shortchange life expectancy. But it does chip away at what makes one who they are. It robs so much from daily life. People are more prone to falls and other health risks which can cause life changing injury. It robs one of their sense of identity and their ability to be active and social. It’s like watching your life evanesce, as steam from a slowly simmering pot of tea disseminates into the air.

So, what’s next for me? I want to continue to live a full and vibrant life. I still want to inspire others with what can be accomplished with determination. And I want to raise funds for research. The Michael J Fox Foundation has the number one goal of finding a cure or way to end PD. Watchdog rating groups that score foundations give the Michael J Fox Foundation an A+ rating. Their research department is doing amazing work, and this has resulted in greater understanding of PD and breakthroughs that are already helping those of us with the disease. PD is surpassing Alzheimer’s as the leading neurogenerative disorder. If PD hasn’t already touched you, a loved one, or an acquaintance, you likely will be touched personally by it in your lifetime. If you would like to be part of the cure, I invite you to contribute to my fundraising campaign. ONE HUNDRED PERCENT of the donations go directly to research. As for me, I will continue to fight the fight.

https://give.michaeljfox.org/fundraiser/6315010

34. Preparation Starts for the next Challenge

In four months, I will be going to Guatemala for another fundraising event for the Michael J Fox Foundation. This time I will be climbing three volcanoes on mostly day treks. The first volcano we climb will be Pacaya and it will be the easiest day. We will start around 6,100 ft. elevation and climb to 7,100 ft. elevation. We only hike 3.75 miles so this will be very doable for me. The second day we climb Acatenango Volcano where we start at 8,400 ft. and ascend to 11,700 ft. with 4 miles distance. There we overnight on the trail and resume the journey the next day. We will continue to the peak at 13,405 ft. before descending 4.5 miles back to the foot of the volcano. Fortunately, we get a day off before tackling the hardest day when we climb 5,600 ft. elevation gain and 4 miles to the top of Atilan Volcano. We then go back to the bottom, all in one day. The thought of doing this intimidates me more than climbing to the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro.

So why am I doing this trip! I think I might be crazy. The number one thing that motivates me is that 100% of funds raised goes to research to find the cure and better treatments for managing Parkinson’s Disease. This seems even more important with government funding for research being cut in so many places including research for PD. But I’m driven for even more than that. I have found a valuable community in the Michael J Fox Foundation. The friends and support group I have made are very important to me. Also, I have found that having a goal gives something to strive for and the impetus to stay in shape. I have not found anything to contradict the research showing that vigorous exercise is the only proven way to slow the progress of PD. I want to inspire others with my experiences, raise awareness and be a part of the solution by supporting needed research.

My need to be in shape and get ready is already under way. I have been to our local REI to purchase new boots and a few other items I will need. I was hoping Keen would sponsor a new pair of hiking boots, but their outreach program replied with an automated message that their program didn’t include requests like mine. Oh well, didn’t hurt to try.

I am doing core exercises including sit-ups, pushups, planks, and more 4-5 days a week. I’m going on vigorous power walks around the neighborhood or greenways. And of course, I’m still hiking with my committed group of hikers who take on more difficult challenges to local waterfalls or beautiful views of the mountains ridges and valleys that are abundant in the mountains of western North Carolina. We always see beautiful flowers on these outings too. The summer heat and humidity have been a deterrent, but we still get out there and put in the work of getting to our destination. It is so rewarding to breath the fresh air, have companionship, lunch by waterfalls or mountain streams and see the beauty of nature that manmade objects can’t compete with. Sometimes we take a dip in the cold water flowing over rocks and boulders which often make inviting swimming holes.