It felt good to sleep in on our transfer day. After breakfast and strapping our bags to the top of our bus, we were off for the four-hour ride to Lake Atilan. We were all in a good mood and singing along to the motivational playlist Zoe constructed of our individual choices. The beautiful scenic drive and laughter along the way made the time pass quickly. We came around a corner in the road and laid out ahead were beautiful volcanic peaks. Shortly, the bus driver pulled over at an overlook of Lake Atilan. We all piled out to take in the majestic site before us. As I gazed upon the towering peaks rising from the surface of the water, it was as if a huge wave knocked me over. The thought that the next day I would be climbing one of those peaks overwhelmed me to the core. I had serious thoughts of signing off and sitting this one out. I remembered the words of the Psalmist David in Psalm 121.
I look to the mountains; where will my help come from?
My help will come from the Lord, who made heaven and earth. GNT
There was a platform overlooking the lake, and I walked briskly toward it. I knelt on my knees and hid my face in my hands. In that moment, I lifted my thoughts to a Power greater than myself, earnestly asking for the strength I needed to face the challenge of the next day.
We took group pictures and boarded back on the bus to a minimart where I withdrew some local currency from an ATM while the others got food, snacks, and drinks for the boat ride to our next hotel. The crossing was a lot of fun as we slowly crossed the lake. I chose a perfect spot with a chair looking out the back of the boat and Vinnie sat in a chair beside me. The mood was buoyant and cheerful as we enjoyed our snacks, beverages and camaraderie.
The grounds of our hotel were beautiful with lush, tropical plants and pretty views from our rooms. Once settled in, we set off for a taco dinner and enjoyed the local sites and sounds along the way. The shops had colorful Mayan items that offered fun souvenirs to take home. The streets were noisy with the many Tuk-tuks that raced by. After filling up on tacos, we set out for a little walking tour of the town. I chose to buy two apples from a colorful fruit stand to take in my daypack the next day. I enjoyed seeing the street vendor’s wares, the families with their small children and the interesting architecture, especially the Spanish Cathedral.
That evening before going to bed, Zoe asked us to gather at a spot near the lake. She offered us an opportunity to share what was in our hearts and thoughts while we were in the midst of this epic challenge. When it was my turn, I hesitated as I wasn’t sure I could articulate my innermost thoughts very clearly. I was very emotional and garbled out some thought fragments that probably didn’t make sense to anyone but me. But I found it very meaningful to hear what others had to say. Dealing with Parkinson’s Disease brings loss and grief that must be processed and this was an opportunity to hear the stories of others traveling a similar path.
When I woke the next morning, I felt rejuvenated and ready to take on the mountain. We were instructed to be at the hotel restaurant by 2:30 to pick up our preordered breakfast and lunch for the day’s climb. Then we headed to our transportation site where pick-up trucks were waiting for us. I was granted a seat inside the cab which I gladly accepted. The others jumped into the beds of the trucks, and we were on our way. It was very dark and chilly outside, and I was glad to be inside the truck.
The journey to the trailhead took approximately 20 minutes. When the trucks came to a stop along the road, everyone got out and began preparing for the hike ahead. Luisa had arranged a porter to carry my daypack, so I handed it over before we set off. Each member of our group wore a headlight that illuminated the path in the early morning darkness.
After snapping a group photo, we were off. The darkness limited our vision, and the only part of the trail visible was the section lit by our headlights. At first, the path felt more like a deep ditch, but the trail was not as steep as I had anticipated. Above us, the moon and stars peeked through the canopy of trees, adding a quiet beauty to the experience. Lauren had a fascinating app that identified the constellations overhead. I had no sense of time, and I couldn’t say exactly when we stopped for breakfast. However, I recall that it was still early, with the first light of dawn beginning to break through the trees. I ate a banana and half of the black bean and scrambled egg burrito I had requested. I gave my porter the vegetable selection I requested for lunch.
With the light of day, I could see that we were trekking through what looked like a jungle. It reminded me of my time in the jungles of Cambodia many decades ago. The trail was also a lot steeper now and I had to watch every step I took. All along the way were very beautiful flowers. It had warmed up so I took off my jacket but kept my liner gloves on. I kept a middle-of-the pack position as the group separated into three sections. We stopped frequently along the way to take rest and snack breaks.
When we stopped for lunch, I ate the remaining half of my burrito. As I was eating it, I noted a tiny worm on my thigh where the burrito rested in my hand. Jo admonished me to forgo eating the remainder of the burrito. I didn’t know if the worm was from the burrito or had fallen from a tree but either way I didn’t feel that eating a worm would hurt me and I could use the protein. LOL
As we continued, the trail got steeper and the air got thinner. Before long, we were high enough to see through clearings to the lake below. I was needing get-my-breath breaks more often now but still doing okay and I knew I would make the peak. Eventually we broke through the tree line, and the trail became very steep with little switchbacks all the way to the top. The ground was very rocky with volcanic gravel making it slippery. The group spread out as each hiker struggled to keep going. We could clearly see the lake below, but all our focus was on getting to the top. My pace had slowed down to that of a slug, but I was still going, still panting, still determined to get there.
Luisa was poised at the crest and took pictures of each of us as we reached the top. I had made it! I had done something truly remarkable in that at 70 years old and living with PD for almost 9 years I had achieved the Three Volcano Challenge with no more help than a porter to carry my overnight gear on Acatenango and my daypack on Atilan. I was overcome with emotion and felt gratitude for all the support and love that had been shown to me. I had carried a list of my supporters in my pack up each volcano and took the list from my pack to photograph it. Then I took a picture with Vinnie and Luisa.
I was beyond exhausted and looked for a place to sit down. I spied a rock with a vent producing a warm vapor. I sat there taking in perhaps the most incredible, majestic and gorgeous 360-degree panorama I have ever seen. In my exhausted, neurochemically depleted, and glucose deprived state, I felt alone, isolated and sad. While these feelings are common to people with PD, they were not familiar to me. The metaphor of the mountain was not lost on me as I contemplated the realization that I had reached the peak and it was all downhill from here. I would have to face what age and PD were doing to me. I tried to memorize the view in my mind, knowing that I would not see anything like this again.
Zoe came over to check on me and asked if she could sit with me. Perhaps she sensed how I was feeling or perhaps she recognized something she had seen in her father who was living with PD longer than I have. I assured her I was okay. Then Jerry came over and offered me some bites of his chocolate bar. I gladly accepted his offer. I truly believe that those bites of chocolate gave me just what I needed to get my keister off that rock and join the group for celebratory pictures. All twelve of us had made it. Now that is something to be proud of and celebrate!
Our descent began later in the afternoon than we had planned, which meant we would be navigating the trail as daylight faded. Although going downhill required less raw energy than climbing up, the challenge shifted to maintaining balance on the slippery path. I adopted a side-step technique, keeping my trekking poles close to my body to counteract gravity and prevent myself from falling.
Fatigue was evident among all of us, and many members of the group took tumbles along the way. Thankfully, none of the falls resulted in serious injury. As we continued down, the sky was transformed by a stunning sunset, its pink and orange hues casting a beautiful glow over the landscape.
With darkness settling in, I put on my headlight to illuminate the trail for the last stretch. After fourteen arduous hours, we completed the final volcano, bringing our remarkable journey to a close.
That evening, as we gathered around the dinner table, I felt in a fog. My communication, socializing, mood regulation and even thinking were off. Fortunately, the others were functioning better than I was and we gave Vinnie and Luisa a nice gratuity and offered big thanks for being the best guides in Guatemala. Five of the group were leaving early the next morning so we said our goodbyes to them. The rest of us were spending extra time at Lake Atilan before returning home.
The boat transfer to our respective resorts on Lake Atilan was fun for the seven of us who were staying on a few days after the climb. Jo and I were dropped off first at Isla Verde, a virtual garden resort recommended by my friend Ana Boza. Later that afternoon we relaxed with a massage session we had booked before our trip. For dinner, we met up with the others to enjoy one last dinner together. Lauren and Zoe treated me to a celebratory Margharita as we circled up on a beach and recounted many fun times over the week.
Over the three days after the climb, I was able to recover much of my strength both physical and mental. While climbing very high volcanoes may be over, I will continue to climb mountains. I will still find many ways to advocate for the PD community. I will continue to live a vibrant and meaningful life.
I want to express my heartfelt gratitude to the Michael J Fox Foundation for providing me with this extraordinary opportunity. Not only did this experience allow me to accomplish a significant physical feat, but it also offered a valuable chance for introspection and helped guide me toward new directions in life.
I am deeply thankful to the eleven other members of our team. Their unwavering support and enthusiastic encouragement played a crucial role as I faced the challenges of this journey. Every step was made easier knowing I was surrounded by such a dedicated and caring group.
Additionally, I am profoundly appreciative of all those who contributed to my campaign, join me on my local hikes, and continue to offer friendship and encouragement in my daily life. The love and support I have received has been invaluable and has made this achievement even more meaningful.
I was able to raise $11,600 and collectively the group raised over $135,000 dollars. ONE HUNDRED PERCENT of these funds goes directly to research seeking an end to Parkinson’s Disease.
© Copyright 2025. Lucretia Pintacuda. All rights reserved.
Trekking Upward 